Marcel Rutz (MR)
Werner Rüegsegger (WR)
Critic, Michaela*: "The chocolate isn't fresh"
WR: There are people already... because fresher is almost impossible. Ask them why?
MR: I think she compares it to Latterich*.
WR: Forget it! A good old friend. Karlo Frost*. is a chocolate expert par excellence. He spent 18 years with Berny Callabert* Sales Director and now with Latterich* Senior Advisor. He visited us last week. Latterich* is interested in our cocoa. He tested our cocoa beans and all our chocolates 36, Blond, 44, 57, 60, 72, 80 and 90% with a seven-person test team. With a unanimous result:
94% market chance and the grade "Excellence"! We also talked about the Latterich* racer "Fresh Chocolate". This will be on the shelves at the earliest 4 weeks after production! This is logistically determined and in addition each chocolate needs a ripening time of at least 10 days. Correctly packaged (aluminium foil) and under correct storage conditions (15-18 degrees Celcius), chocolate can be kept for 1-11/2 years without any loss of quality. In any case, our chocolate is fresher than the praised "fresh chocolate" from Latterich*. It is a successful marketing strategy and if you want to compare chocolate with Weggli (a fresh Weggli is max. 1 day old), you are lying across the landscape. Tell her in this case that she should buy so-called fresh chocolate from Latterich*, this is fresh and at least one month old... Do you know the "magician from Entlebuch" Stefan Wagner*, he comes to my studio on Tuesday. He is very interested in the Schoggi. I have the honour...
Critic: Mr. Gugger*:
Hey Mäs. One of my former team leaders at Bank AmHügel AG learned food technology (or whatever it was called at the time) and then worked for Chocolats Haram* for a long time as a chocolate tester. I took the liberty of giving him one of your 75% blacks "to test" and giving me honest critical feedback. I would be happy to pass this feedback on to you, whereby he also said that of course everything was a matter of taste and that he could only give his feedback/feeling. Here it is:
"Basically one can say that it is exactly as described on the packaging. But....For me.... 1.) First of all I was surprised that the texture/bite for a dark chocolate is so soft (maybe because of a lot of cocoa butter/emulsifier and long chonchieren?) 2.) I expect more bitterness and a little more acidity from a dark chocolate. 3.) To me it is too nutty, creamy and as a whole not as I would expect a dark chocolate. 4.) A long, intense chocolaty finish is mentioned; I find at the beginning there is just a lot of creamy nut/date and at the end there is a long cocoa finish. For me it's as if it had 2 separate components - as if the cocoa wasn't really incorporated into the mass. So I find the cocoa release rather unpleasant or reminds me a bit of deoiled cocoa powder for baking. Sorry!
WR: "I am not surprised by his judgement, as he has only dealt with industrial "optimized blends" and hardened deodorized cocoa butter. It's also his own opinion. I have completely different opinions from Latterich* and Faklin*. Then send you the systematic evaluations of 1x11 and 1x12 professional testers with a total score of over 9ü points out of 100 as a maximum and market opportunity recommendation of 94%! Give him the 90% one, where he can show his "arts" :)
It is also typical that he speaks of bitterness (can be eliminated by correct conching) which is not present in my chocolates. Bitterness is abundant in cheap Forastera. He talks about emulsifier and too much cocoa butter: cocoa butter = 4% = VERY little. I use absolutely no emulsifier. When he talks about emulsifier it is embarrassing for a tester... No wonder, the industry propagates bitter chocolate. All in all I am not convinced by the opinion of your tester and if the word cocoa powder needs for cooking it is an insult for this chocolate... :-
Question by Markus*: The LYNDA* 80% noir chocolate tastes good to me. But feel the sugar, is that "fake"?
WR: There is a trick with the % specification: cocoa butter is considered as cocoa content, so for example 20% cocoa butter can be added and therefore also more sugar, so that it tastes "more sweet". An 80% Lynda* can therefore contain up to 40% sugar and it is not a Grand Cru, which means it is a blend of cocoa beans to eliminate acidity, bitterness etc.. A Chocoholic notices this naturally. I myself like the Lynda 80% noir also not bad is balanced but not "purebred", it is in any case better than that of Dominic Müller*. With the high-proof chocolate it is like with the wine. An 80% Grand Cru single origine can be compared to a Bateaux*. It is mainly wine gurus who love these wines. A Cabaret salt stem* is less complex in its aromas and very sweet. It appeals to many more wine drinkers. It is similar to chocolate. That's not fake at all!
Question by Beat*: Yes, but are the beans delivered clean, via ship container? Is that hygienic, and are there vermin?
WR: Closed, hygienically packed in 50kg bags by air compartment to Zurich Airport, where I pick them up myself. Recently 10 tons were delivered to Amsterdam, for Chocolat Eisenhower*. They had the beans analysed with an excellent certificate. All perfect quality.
A certificate of analysis is required for customs. This must be issued by the authorities in the country of production. For this, the producer must meet and document international hygiene standards, the origin of the cocoa, production standards, etc.
Belize, as a Commonwealth member, takes these regulations very seriously in contrast to most Central and South American countries. I just made a batch of 72% Tumaco from Colombia. Good taste, some acidity but also astringency present. The beans were very different in size, fermented irregularly, a very thick skin and above all at least 5-6% less cocoa butter and a high moisture content which resulted in a very thick chocolate. So that I could process it I had to add additionally 10% cocoa butter. The Peini cocoa is really without exception a special class.
The certificate is issued by the State of Belize and is accepted in the CH without any problems. In contrast, Belize, for example, requires a certificate for the milk powder from CH that MC has imported.
Question by Tamara*: How much chocolate can you make with a 60 kilo sack of beans?
WR: 1 sack= 50kg =80% = about 620 tables à 80g, with lower % it is more with higher % it is less tables.
Testimony of Tina*: I must not eat too much chocolate, otherwise I have diabetes!
MR: Dark chocolate contains less sugar than milk chocolate and only half as much sugar as white chocolate. It also lowers blood pressure. Our chocolate is made from cocoa butter (produced locally) and not with other fats such as palm oil, which is unhealthy and inexpensive.
And our ingredients are homemade, no mass industry and therefore of high quality.
WR : And for comparison, Latterich* hazelnut milk chocolate*, for example, contains at least 45% sugar, while our hazelnut milk chocolate contains only 26%.
Question by Tatjana*: White chocolate is not really chocolate, is your "white" natural?
WR: First, it is made with cold pressed, single origin Belize, virgin cocoa butter and milk powder from Gruyère. Secondly, the cocoa butter is neither heard (chemically treated) nor deodorized! It couldn't be more natural.